This article was first published in July 2021 and was updated in July 2024.
I’d been to Lille once before… it could be 10 years ago, it could be 20. Either way, I didn’t remember much about it and I didn’t have particularly high expectations. The only reason I was going to Lille at all was because northern France was the easiest place for my entire family – coming from England, Belgium and the Netherlands respectively – to get to without having to quarantine in the midst of the second year of the pandemic. We hadn’t seen each other in 18 months – the location was pretty much irrelevant. So while I rushed to make restaurant reservations for the third time (we’d already planned and then nixed two other destinations), I did not have high hopes for Lille. Luckily for me, I’d got it all wrong.
Travel to, and accommodation in, Lille
Before you can start eating out in Lille, you’re going to need to get there! Lille has a huge train station, so the easiest way to reach Lille from cities like Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris or even London is by train. Omio is a useful platform for comparing train times and prices between different rail companies and booking tickets in English. That said, if you’re coming from somewhere that doesn’t have a great public transport network of its own, you may prefer to rent a car and drive to Lille. For both my my recent trips, I stayed at the Hotel Barrière, which is conveniently close to both the train station and the ring road but still only a short walk to the old town.
Top restaurants in Lille for fine dining
Le Cerisier
Our big, blow-out meal during our first trip was at Le Cerisier, an elegant restaurant with one Michelin star to the north of the city centre. At dinner, choose one of their fixed menus for creative, modern takes on classic dishes. For me, the stand-out dish was the lobster with Le Cerisier’s signature preparation of cherries in several different ways. But I also loved the beef main course with what can only be described as an exploding potato bomb. Don’t forget to browse the cheese cart that lives in its own special room with all the bottles of wine (surely foodie heaven?). If you’re with a large group, they also have a lovely private dining room that exudes the same atmosphere as the rest of the restaurant but offers a bit more privacy for your family reunion (or birthday, anniversary, etc.). Plus, we were impressed at how well the chefs handled my niece’s request for a vegetarian menu. An excellent choice for a special occasion.
Rozó
A short taxi ride from Lille centre, in a converted printing warehouse that’s all bare red brick and high ceilings, you’ll find Rozó: the restaurant we chose to celebrate my parents’ 60th wedding anniversary. Inside, it’s modern, elegant and with a split-level vibe that makes it feel both spacious and cosy. At dinnertime, you can choose four or six courses (although both tasting menus come with lots of extra surprise dishes) and there are some smaller/cheaper options available at lunchtime. Our group of ten went for the “Impressions” six-course menu, which was a finely honed exercise in balancing bold acidity with delicate ingredients. Perhaps surprisingly, my favourite course was the various vegetables (seaweed, fennel, broccoli, radish) in a kombu dashi: it sounds simple but it was a medley of various umami bombs. The mackerel with carrots and marigold was equally accomplished: bursting with spicy ginger, lemony citronella and floral flavours. But every dish was just as impressive, and with a wine list to match.
Quai 38
Specialising in fish and seafood, Quai 38 may not have a Michelin star but it’s widely considered to be one of the best fish restaurants in Lille. The menu appears on giant boards that are wheeled around the restaurant; it’s essentially a la carte, but the kitchen offers a mixed starter to share if you’d like to try a bit of everything. (Obviously I did.) The razor clams with garlic and herb butter were particularly good, as was the seared tuna and the seabass ceviche. As a main, I opted for a decadent dish of monk fish, giant shrimp and lobster tail in a lobster bisque – which was about as rich as it sounds. The wine list was predictably French and paired very well with the food: we chose a Pouilly-Fumé (Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Velley) and a white Givry (Chardonnay from Burgundy). Conveniently located on the edge of the old city, Quai 38 makes a lovely first or last night in Lille.
Casual dining restaurants in Lille
La Fleur de Lille
My dad claims that what France does very well is the kind of mid-priced, family-run, unfussy restaurant you’ll find in any neighbourhood. And I think he’s right. He certainly was in the case of La Fleur de Lille, where we ate on our second night before popping down the road to a café to watch Belgium in the European Football Championship. It was that kind of place. The menu was simple and relatively classic, with a few twists. La Fleur de Lille’s foie gras was excellent, punctuated by flecks of pink peppercorns and sea salt. Their fresh tuna was deliciously pink in the middle, served with minty salsa verde, black rice and a simple tomato and avocado salad. Uncomplicated yet tasty, with charming service.
Brasserie La Chicorée
We had never heard of the mysterious “Welsh” until we arrived in Lille, and yet it seemed that every local restaurant was serving them. It takes its name from the Welsh rarebit, but the Lillois have made it very much their own: think cast-iron pan filled with bubbling, melted cheddar. There may be a slice of bread or ham buried somewhere beneath, but frankly any other ingredients pale into insignificance when faced with the veritable lake of cheese. I would not recommend ordering one of these by yourself – better to share with a friend (or five) alongside some lighter dishes. Even French fries feel light in comparison, so get yourself some of those, too. We ate our Welsh at Brasserie La Chicorée, which seemed to be a very popular spot, but plenty of brasseries in the city sell them and they look to be very similar.
Local blog Lille Addict has a guide to the 10 best places to eat Le Welsh.
Other foodie ideas in Lille
Take a picnic to the park from Sandwich Corner
Of course, you will not find Sandwich Corner on the map. But if you head to the intersection of Rue Basse and Rue Lepelletier, you’ll see what I mean. For those seeking a simple baguette jambon-fromage, you’ve got PAUL – a well-known chain of bakeries – on one side of the road. If a stuffed-to-bursting falafel pita is more your bag, cross the road and order from Bar Parallèle. Alternatively, two doors down, you’ll find American-style pulled-pork burgers and brisket sandwiches at Lazy Suzy. We were a party of eight, so we split forces and tried them all. Armed with your takeaway paper bags, walk due east towards the Citadel, where you’ll find plenty of grassy spots and park benches to feast on your improvised picnic if the weather cooperates.
Drink a local craft brew at Beer Square
Although there’s no actual square in Lille called Place de Bière, there is a large sign in the square surrounding Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille Cathedral that reads “Beer Square”. Further Googling reveals that this is (unsurprisingly) a bar, but the name could equally apply to the whole place – surrounded as it is by hipster cafés and bars selling local craft beers. Our bière blanche actually came from one called Aux Deux Cocottes, but there are plenty to choose from – including, of course, the eponymous Beer Square. With the cathedral in the background, it’s a lovely spot to indulge in some people-watching, especially at dusk. Although be warned: if you’re over the age of 30, you’re going to feel old.
